Harling's Jewellers - Learning Lounge FAQ

What is “White Gold?”

White gold is an alloy of gold and at least one other white metal, such as silver or palladium. Like yellow gold, white gold is measured in karats. Its’ properties vary depending on the metals and proportions used. The highest quality white gold is 19 karat, and is comprised of 79% pure gold and 21% palladium.

What is Platinum?

In its’ natural state, Platinum appears grayish-white and is corrosion-resistant.

Platinum's durability and tarnish resistant qualities are well suited for making fine jewellery. It is also more expensive and labour intensive compared to gold. The price of platinum, like all precious metals, is tied to market conditions, but generally speaking, its price is normally slightly less than twice that of gold. In the 18th century, platinum's rarity made King Louis XV of France declare it the only metal fit for a king.

What Does “585” & “750” Mean?

Although in North America, jewellers and manufacturers use the “Karat” system, where one karat is 1/24 purity by mass, the “Karat System” is increasingly being complemented or superseded by the millesimal fineness system in which the purity of precious metals is denoted by parts per thousand of pure metal in the alloy.

The most common carats used for gold in bullion, jewellery making and by goldsmiths are:

• 24 karat (millesimal fineness 999)
• 22 karat (millesimal fineness 916)
• 18 karat (millesimal fineness 750)
• 14 karat (millesimal fineness 585)
• 10 karat (millesimal fineness 417)
• 9 karat (millesimal fineness 375)

What Are Hallmarks?

A hallmark, is a mark or series of marks struck on items made of precious metals - platinum, gold, silver and in some countries, palladium. Historically, hallmarks were applied by an “Assay Office” who would test the metal to guarantee a certain purity or fineness of the metal. These markings would include the makers mark, the assay office mark, the standard mark, the date letter and on older pieces, the duty mark.

They are particularly valuable, in not only establishing the fineness of the metal but also verifying where and when the piece was made.

Is It Possible That I Am Allergic To Gold?

There are actually no known documented cases of people being allergic to pure gold. If someone experiences problems wearing gold, it is actually an allergic reaction to the alloys that are mixed with gold. These alloys are used not only to effect a colour change but also to increase durability, since gold, in its purest form, is very soft and malleable.

The most common alloys used are silver, nickel, platinum, palladium, copper and zinc.

Sometimes the problem can be corrected by wearing a higher karat of gold or at other times, by wearing yellow gold instead or white gold or vice versa.

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What Are “Natural Pearls?"

Natural pearls are the most rare and valuable of pearls. They are nearly 100% nacre. It is thought that natural pearls form under a set of accidental conditions when a microscopic intruder or parasite enters a bivalve mollusk, and settles inside the shell. The mollusk, being irritated by the intruder, secretes the calcium carbonate substance called nacre to cover the irritant. This secretion process is repeated many times, thus producing a pearl. Natural pearls come in many shapes, with round ones being comparatively rare.

How Are Pearls Graded?

The value of pearls is based on their origin, shape, colour, lustre, nacre thickness and degree of surface blemishing.

What Are “Chinese Freshwater Pearls?

Unlike Japanese “Cultured Pearls”, Chinese freshwater mussels were once grafted up to 50 times per shell, or 25 times per valve. This practice was common when the industry mussel was primarily the cockscomb pearl mussel (Cristaria plicata). This mussel produced a high volume of low quality pearls that came to be known as “Rice” pearls in the 1970s and 1980s. More than a decade ago the freshwater pearl industry of China shifted production from the cockscomb to the triangle shell mussel (Hyriopsis cumingii). While the triangle shell produced fewer pearls, accepting only 12-16 grafts per valve for a total production of 24 to 32 pearls, the difference in quality was substantial.

The grafting process begins by selecting a suitable donor mussel and cutting a strip of tissue from the mantle. This strip of tissue is then cut into 3mm squares. These squares are delivered to a technician who performs the operation. Unlike saltwater bead nucleation, this process is not considered difficult, and technicians need only minimum training to perform the operation. The technician creates small incisions on the upper valve, and inserts the tissue piece. A small twist of the tissue upon insertion is believed to create a higher ratio of round pearls. After the maximum number of grafts have been performed, the mussel is flipped, and the procedure is performed once again on the reverse side of the valve.

Value wise, Chinese Freshwater Pearls cost substantially less than Japanese Saltwater Cultured Pearls and it is important to consult a qualified Gemmologist to ensure the exact origin of the pearls.

Why Are South Seas/Tahitian Pearls So Expensive?

South Seas Pearls are pearls prized for their size (generally over 10mm in diameter) and their unique lustre. They are formed in mollusks that inhabit the waters off Australia, Myanmar, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Full strands of matched round South Seas pearls are rare and are consequently more expensive than other types of pearls.

Tahitian Pearls are cultivated from the black-lipped variety of the pinctada maxima oyster which reaches a foot or more in diameter, and produces very large pearls. This oyster is very sensitive to the pearl culturing process, which makes the pearls very costly to produce.

These pearls are traditionally called "black," but their colour can range from a metallic silver, to the colour of graphite. And within this range of colors they can have bluish, purplish, or greenish overtones.

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Are All Emeralds Oiled?

While the oiling of emeralds is prevalent in the industry, it is only confined to poorer grade emeralds or stones that have surface reaching fissures. It is a requirement of all American Gem Trade Association members to disclose if this treatment has been used since it is not a permanent or stable treatment.

Which Gemstones Are Better Suited For Everyday Wear?

Other than Emerald, Tanzanite, Pearls and Opals, all gemstones are considered durable enough to be worn on an everyday basis. When selecting a gemstone that is less durable, it is important to select a setting that will protect the gemstone from normal wear and tear.

What is My Birthstone?

What Are Synthetic Gemstones?

Synthetic gemstones are made of a substance which has been produced artificially, and which has the same chemical composition, crystal structure and physical properties as its natural counterpart.

There are also man-made stones which do not have a natural counterpart and simulants which may resemble the appearance of a natural stone but differ greatly in all other aspects.

Why is a One Carat Ruby Smaller Than a One Carat Emerald?

All gemstones have differing densities or specific gravities. Consequently, if two gemstones have the same weight, but different specific gravities, their size will vary. In the case of a Ruby, the SG is 4.00 compared to 2.70 for an Emerald.

How Are Coloured Gemstones Graded?

Like Pearls, there are certain key factors that influence the value of a coloured gemstone. These include the origin, market conditions (Supply/Demand), the hue, tone and saturation (Colour), the degree of inclusions (Clarity) and the polish, symmetry and proportioning of the stone (Cut). Of the three “C’s”, colour is considered the most important.

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Why Does “Cut” Affect The Value of a Diamond?

Prior to 1919, diamond cutters placed their emphasis on weight retention. This resulted in more of the original diamond crystal being retained but also a noticeable loss of brilliance. In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky, a member of a Belgian family of diamond cutters, published his Diamond Design, which was the first recorded analysis of diamond proportions for the round brilliant cut diamond. His work was based on modern theories of light behaviour and his opinion of what proportions resulted, in what many industry professionals considered, to be the best possible balance of brilliance and dispersion of light.

Today, diamond cutters, recognize and understand the importance of sacrificing weight to achieve more brilliance. This results in a greater weight loss and consequently a higher price per carat. In some cases, cut can affect the value by up to 50%.

Why Should I Buy a Canadian Diamond?

Conflict diamonds are diamonds illegally traded to fund conflict in war-torn areas, particularly in central and western Africa. The United Nations (UN) defines conflict diamonds as "...diamonds that originate from areas controlled by forces or factions opposed to legitimate and internationally recognized governments, and are used to fund military action in opposition to those governments, or in contravention of the decisions of the Security Council." These diamonds are sometimes referred to as "Blood Diamonds".

Conflict diamonds captured the world's attention during the extremely brutal conflict in Sierra Leone in the late 1990s. During this time, it is estimated that conflict diamonds represented approximately 4% of the world's diamond production. Illicit rough diamonds have also been used by rebels to fund conflicts in Angola, Liberia, Ivory Coast, the Democratic Republic of Congo and the Republic of Congo (also known as Congo Brazzaville). Today, the flow of conflict diamonds has been reduced to considerably less than 1%.

For the socially conscious consumer, Canadian Diamonds come with certification that authenticates their origin and the fact that they are conflict free.

What is “Moissanite”?

Moissanite is a rare gemstone that can be manufactured in a laboratory. Due to the rarity of Natural Moissanite, silicon carbide is typically man-made. Although it is invariably used as an abrasive, where it is often known by the trademark carborundum, it is also used as a semi-conductor and more recently was as a “Diamond Simulant.”

Although the introduction of “Synthetic Moissanite” created concern among jewellers and consumers, they are not hard to detect, especially when using specialized Gemmological equipment designed to identify this new stimulant.

What Are “Fancy” Coloured Diamonds?

Unlike white diamonds, in fancy diamonds, colour is of paramount importance. In fact, it eclipses the other three Cs when judging the value and quality of these rare gemstones.

Diamonds are one of the very few gemstone types that come in a rainbow of natural colourations. Some colours, like red and green, are so rare they are hardly ever seen. Other colours, however, like canary yellow, pastel pink, blue and a sparkling brown, known as "Champagne," are more plentiful. They get their colour from the addition of other elements in the pure carbon that creates diamonds. For example, the addition of boron creates a blue diamond; the inclusion of nitrogen produces yellow or green.

Many of the fancy colours on the market in recent years are from Australia. Pinks, from pastel tints to purplish-pinks, and Champagnes, from light brown to cognac, come from mines in that country. Generally, these stones are fairly small in size. Lower quality white diamonds (usually M or lower in colour) are also irradiated and heat-treated to produce fancy colours. These diamonds are substantially lower in value than their natural counterparts.

What Assurances Do I Have About The Quality Of My diamond?

“Honestly”, “Trust” and “Integrity” are the foundations of our industry. Even today, multi-million dollar transactions are concluded with a handshake. However, it is still important to deal with a jeweller you trust, who has an impeccable reputation and stands behind his product. It is also important to work with a qualified Gemmologist and appraiser who will take the time to properly document your diamond. It is also helpful to have an independent certificate from a recognized and competent Gemmological Laboratory (i.e American Gem Society or the Gemological Institute of America).

How Should I Care For My Diamond?

A diamond cutter will cut a diamond based on the principle that the surrounding medium is air. Diamonds unfortunately have an affinity for grease and will become dirty from careless handling and everyday wear. This essentially changes the optical properties of the diamond and diminishes its’ brilliance. Most jewellers recommend the use of diluted “Mr Clean” or other ammonia based cleaning solutions to remove the dirt. It is also recommended not to wear your gold jewellery in a swimming pool since chlorine will attack the gold and can loosen the set stones.

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How Can I Tell If My “ROLEX” Is Authentic?

There is a proliferation of fake Rolex watches in the marketplace. Genuine Rolex watches have the serial number engraved on the case between the watch lugs which hold the bracelet. It is also prudent to have a qualified watchmaker examine the watch to establish its authenticity.

Why Are Certain Watches More Valuable?

Just like all products, certain brands are more valuable than others because of the quality of the workmanship, the attention to detail, where they are manufactured and the demand in the marketplace. “Branding” plays an important part in the pricing of an item, particularly when it comes to watches.

What is The Difference Between a Quartz Movement And an Automatic Movement?

Quartz timepieces use the nature of the quartz crystal to provide a very accurate resonator which gives a constant electronic signal for timekeeping purposes. Quartz crystals are piezoelectric, which means that they generate an electrical charge when mechanical pressure is applied to them. They also vibrate if an electrical charge is applied to them. The frequency of this vibration is a function of the cut and shape of the crystal. Quartz crystals can be cut at a consistent size and shape to vibrate at thousands of times per second, making them extremely stable resonators for keeping very accurate time.

An automatic movement (also called a self-winding or perpetual movement) is a mechanical watch, typically with a balance wheel escapement, whose mainspring is wound by the motion of the wearer's arm automatically, instead of having to be wound manually every day.

What is The Difference Between a “Chronograph” And a “Chronometer”?

The similar-sounding terms chronograph and chronometer are often confused, although they mean altogether different things.

A complicated watch has one or more functionalities beyond the basic function of displaying the time and the date; such functionality is called a complication. Two popular complications are the chronograph complication, which is the ability of the watch movement to function as a stopwatch, and the moonphase complication, which is a display of the lunar phase. Other more expensive complications include, Tourbillion, Perpetual Calendar, Minute Repeater and Equation of time.

A chronograph is a type of complication, as explained above. A chronometer watch is an all-mechanical watch or clock whose movement has been tested and certified to operate within a certain standard of accuracy by the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres). The concepts are different but not mutually exclusive; a watch can be a chronograph, a chronometer, both, or neither.

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